DIY Twin Assist Hooks: The Recommended Ring Knot + Root Wrap Method

There are many ways to make twin assist hooks. Some people tie knots for the whole build, while others use a needle and thread wrapping. Which method is the easiest and least likely to go wrong?

This guide recommends the approach with the most advantages: knot the ring end + thread-wrap the hook end. No knots during the wrap, no needle, and the whole build comes together in one clean sequence.

1. Why “Knot the Ring + Wrap the Hook” Is the Recommended Combination

Here is the conclusion first: when making twin assist hooks, using a knot at the connection-ring end and thread wrapping (root wrapping) at the hook-shank end gives you the best overall set of advantages.

Benefits:

• Uses less cord and costs less: You need less assist cord, so the build costs less.
• Easy length control ★: You can make the exact length you want.
• Accurate hook-point direction ★: The hook orientation stays reliably aimed in the intended direction.
• Easy to build short hooks ★: Especially useful for short-size assist hooks.
• Easy to add a core: It is also convenient if you want to insert a fluorocarbon or ester core for a “core-filled” version.
• No needle needed: The whole build can be done without a needle.

★ marks an advantage you can also get with a needle-based method. In other words, this setup has no obvious weak spot.

Why a Fully Knotted Build Is Not Recommended

A fully knotted build really is tool-free and very fast—good for batch work or making hooks on the spot—but it also has clear drawbacks:

• It is difficult to make the length accurately.
• Very short assist hooks are hard to make.
• Knots themselves consume cord.
• The hook points can easily end up facing the wrong way.

If you want precise length, controlled hook direction, and long-term use, an all-knot build is not the best solution.

2. Tools and Materials

Get these ready before you start: assist cord, connection rings, hooks, binding thread, a bobbin holder, pliers or a tightening tool, scissors, instant glue, and hardening spray.

3. First, Understand How to Measure Assist-Hook Length

Before you begin, be clear about this: assist-hook length means the distance from the lower edge of the connection ring to the very top of the hook. It does not mean the full length of the cord.

Remember this definition so you can measure the cord correctly before cutting it.

4. Build Steps: No Knots During the Build, No Needle

The following process has been field-tested by the original author. Follow it step by step.

Step 1: Cut the Assist Cord — Finished Length × 2 + 6 cm

The assist cord will be folded in half, so leave extra length. Cut length = desired finished length × 2 + 6 cm.

For example, for a 1.5 cm assist hook: 1.5 × 2 + 6 = 9 cm.

Reference chart (using a #4 ring and size-20 assist cord):

The allowance changes with ring size and assist-cord thickness. For your first one, cut 1–2 cm longer than the chart. You can trim extra length later, but a short cord means starting over.

Step 2: Fold It in Half and Pass It Through the Connection Ring

Fold the cut assist cord in half, then pass both strands through the connection ring together.

Step 3: Twist the Cord Ends into a Loop

Use the same idea as an imomushi knot: twist the two loose ends once to form a small loop.

Step 4: Pass the Connection Ring Through the Twisted Loop

Pass the connection ring through the loop you just made. The double-strand assist cord is now securely looped onto the ring.

Step 5: Pull Each Strand Tight with Pliers

Use a tightening tool or pliers to pull the two strands tight one at a time. Fully cinch the ring knot; this step determines how secure the hooks will be later.

Step 6: Drive the Hook Through the Assist Cord — The Key Strength Step

This is the key step for the strength of the finished assist hook: pierce the assist cord from the outside with the hook and run it through the cord.

• Insertion point: leave enough room at the hook-shank root for the wrap, and pierce the cord 0.5 cm longer than the target finished length.
• For example, for a 1.5 cm hook, pierce it at the 2 cm point.

Step 7: Rotate the Hook So the Barb Passes Through

Rotate the hook so the barb passes through the assist cord.

Why it works: this spreads the fibers apart; it does not cut them, so the strength does not drop. In testing, breaking strength increased from about 12 kg to more than 20 kg after piercing.

Step 8: Slide the Assist Cord to the Hook-Shank Root

After piercing, slide the assist cord along the hook until it reaches the root of the hook shank. Once it is in place, get ready to wrap.

Step 9: Pull Binding Thread from the Bobbin Holder

Pull out a generous length of binding thread from the bobbin holder.

Step 10: First Wrap — Five Turns, Fixed Without a Knot

Here is a simple way to secure the binding thread without tying a knot:

1. Use your middle finger and thumb to hold down the tag end of the binding thread.
2. Make five wraps around the hook-shank root, keeping the tag end pinned under your fingers.

Step 11: Move the Tag End to the Right Side

After the five wraps, move the pinned tag end to the right side to set up the next step.

Step 12: Make Three More Wraps Above the Tag End

Make three more wraps over the tag end, trapping it under the binding thread.

Step 13: Pull the Tag End Tight to Lock the Wrap

Pull the tag end to the right. The binding thread locks in place without a knot.

Step 14: Trim the Tag End

Trim away the excess tag end. The start of the wrap is now hidden and secured.

Step 15: Wrap Ten Solid Turns Under Tension

With tension on the thread, make about ten more solid wraps around the hook-shank root.

Piercing the cord + a solid root wrap are the two steps that largely determine the strength of the finished assist hook.

Step 16: Temporary Wrap on the Left, Leaving Space for the Second Hook

On the left side of the first hook, with a gap between them, make a few temporary wraps to reserve the mounting position for the second hook.

Step 17: Optional: Add Glue and Wrap for Double the Strength

Want more strength? Apply a thin coat of instant glue to the hook shank, then wrap over the glue. Strength can reach around 30 kg.

After applying glue, you do not need to wrap under heavy tension. The glue holds the thread, so simply wrap until you reach enough thickness.

Step 18: Spray Hardener to Keep the Wrap from Loosening

Once the wrap is complete, apply a light coat of instant hardening spray over the whole wrap. It cures immediately and keeps the binding thread from coming loose.

Do not spray too much. Overspraying can turn the finish white and affect its appearance.

Step 19: Install the Second Hook — Pierce It from the Outside Too

For the second hook, also pierce the assist cord from the outside. Once it slides to the hook-shank root, the two hooks will naturally face inward, with the hook points opposing each other—the standard posture for twin assist hooks.

Step 20: Wrap the Second Hook and Finish

Wrap the second hook using the same root-wrapping method as the first hook; glue can be used as well.

When you are new to this, the first hook can get in the way. You can put float-stop rubber over the hook point, or secure it more firmly in a vise. Once finished, the two hook points face each other and the black wrap is neat. The hook is ready to mount on a jig and use.

5. Finished Build and Practical Tips

• There is not a single knot in the whole build. Once practiced, the wrapping goes quickly.
• Length is fully adjustable: Make any length you want; even a 1 cm rear hook can be made.
• Three keys to strength: Pierce the hook through the assist cord + make a solid root wrap + optionally add glue. Together, they raise strength from 12 kg → 20 kg+ → 30 kg.
• Have all tools ready: assist cord, connection rings, hooks, binding thread, a bobbin holder, pliers, instant glue, hardening spray, and scissors.
• The hook used in the original article was a Stake Hook Hikari in #1 size. It suits around 100 g TG jigs and is highly recommended for light jigging.

This article is organized from a public tutorial by Japanese lure blogger “Densetsu Kaicho” (jigging-soul.com/389211). All illustrations are redrawn 2D instructional diagrams based on the original article’s photos.